Top 5 ways to choose a custom tailor
A guide created from the expertise and insights of a fourth generation custom clothier
Alan David Horowitz
A guide created from the expertise and insights of a fourth generation custom clothier
Custom tailoring
must be learned by doing
a high level of craftsmanship
cannot we taught in classrooms
or via books. It may seems like a
collection of simple measurements
...but it is so much more.
Follow these crucial steps
to find best suit maker
for your new, tailored suit
Know the difference between “made-to-measure”
garments and full custom garments:
Made-to-measure-> the patternmaker starts with a
pre-existing stock size pattern and tries to alter the
pattern to your specific measurements. Made-to-measure
patterns can only alter basic measurements, such as sleeve
length, jacket length, waist size, inseam/outseam and a few
other basics. If you happen to be a perfect 40 regular or
42 regular, than made-to-measure can be cost effective.
Full custom-> the pattenmaker makes a pattern from
scratch based on the clients measurements. This allows a
more precise fit especially in the shoulder as well as the
posture areas. Other areas are full custom come in handy for
clients with short or long necks, high or low shoulders, excess
girth, high hips, large or flat seats, and more. Made-to-measure
cannot adjust for these shapes and slopes.
If you are a difficult fit or want a certain type of trim fit,
then you will need full custom, many made-to-measure tailors
claim that they make full custom garments. You can tell the
difference by simply asking him to show you a few patterns
he has created. If he can produce the pattern, then he is real.
This is critical …
You want your garments
to have canvas inside the
jacket as opposed to “fusing”
fusing is a fancy word for glue.
Canvas gives the jacket more
Body and less flimsiness. It does
Not bubble or pucker, especially
After getting caught in the rain
Or excessive wear.
Finally, canvas will somewhat
Mold itself to the shape of your
Body over time. A glued garment
Never changes shape.
Many tailors pass off “quality” Fabric on thread count alone; Like super 100’s or super 130’s. Important element that Determines the quality of Fabric is the mill that produced it.
Mills like zegma, loro piana, Doromeuil, vitale barberies, scabal And holland & sherry are exemplary Mills using high quality yarn. Inferior yarns will eventually Pull or snap, ask the tailor what Mill his fabric comes from.
Take a swatch of the fabri c you Bought so that the final suit’s fabric Does not get subsituited. Its true that Fabrics do sell out, in which case Substition is necessary. However, Unscrupulous tailors will substitute fabric to save money, knowing you can’t tell the difference.
Any custom suit sold below $1000 means inferior fabric With suits that are glued Together, yes, glue,
As with most sizeable Investments you make, The old adage applies “you get what you pay for!”
The best value for a Custom suit is betweens $1300 to $1800.This Buys you the finest quality Fabrics hand crafted by Experienced suit tailors.
Finally – get a final price Upfront. Some tailors charge Extra for working buttonholes, Pic-stiching,delivery or import Duties, etc. you don’t want to Be hit with a larger bill than You bargained for.
If a custom tailor has very Few garments hanging in the Showroom,assume business Is not great.
Having samples in the showroom Indicates a busy tailor, with experience on all body shape and sizes.
Having numerous garments Onhand is also helpful for selecting Fabrics, prticularly if you have a Difficult time picturing a complete Suit from a small swatch.
This is very important for nebies Who have never experinced the Custom suit process.