Our Definition Of Bespoke Tailoring

The True Difference Between Made-To-Measure & Bespoke

We know that there can be confusion as to what constitutes a bespoke garment. The literal definition of bespoke reads “specifically made for a particular person or user”. As you can imagine, this can mean a wide variety of things.

If you go back several generations, the term bespoke refers to a single tailor measuring, patterning, assembling and fitting a single particular garment. The tailor would spend 40-60 hours from start to finish. The entire garment would be sewn by hand. The client would come back multiple times for fittings at every stage of the assembly process. The pattern would be drawn almost from scratch. This level of bespoke was reserved for royalty and dignitaries of the highest regard. It took many months to commission a garment and the costs were not affordable to most.

What is a true bespoke garment these days? This is what we at Alan David Custom feel is true bespoke, as opposed to made-to measure.

Image of a bespoke tailor taking measurement

Step 1. MEASUREMENTS

A bespoke garment should have a measurement taker who is an expert. What good is a pattern or an assembled garment if the measurements are not correct? It is usually better if you get measured by an actual tailor or, at the very least, by somebody who has extensive knowledge taking measurements. At Alan David, we take this very seriously. We make sure that whoever is taking the measurements is skilled and experienced at the highest level.

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    Step 2: PATTERN MAKING

    This is a crucial step that separates made-to-measure and bespoke makers. A made-to-measure garment will have certain restrictions built into its pattern that bespoke garments will not have. A made-to-measure garment uses a pre-existing pattern that gets modified to match the client’s body measurements as close as possible.

    A bespoke garment also uses a pre-existing pattern, as every pattern must start from somewhere. A bespoke garment has no pattern restrictions. As an example, a true made-to-measure garment pattern can only be reduced or increased by a certain amount. It does not have a large tolerance for change. If a waist size is 32 inches, it cannot have a seat greater than 42 or less than 36. If a chest size is 42 inches the stomach size cannot be larger or smaller than a certain amount. These restrictions are most evident in shoulder and posture measurements which define the balance of the garment. At Alan David Custom, we have no pattern restrictions. We have fit clients of every shape and size. Alan David does not believe that the same person who makes the pattern also needs to assemble and fit the garment. We use the best experts at each phase of the suit-making process.

    There is a lot of industry jargon that a pattern needs to be hand cut on paper to be bespoke. Alan David does not believe this to be true. Computer generated patterns are even more precise and work just as well, as long as the pattern is scaled correctly. Computer generated patterns also work well for repeat orders, as the client’s patterns are easily saved and adjusted for the next purchase.

    An image of a tailor cutting fabric

    Step 3: CUTTING

    Old world bespoke tailors will insist that all garments must be hand cut to be considered bespoke. It is Alan David’s belief that today’s “Gerber” pattern cutters are more exact and more efficient than yester years bespoke traditions. There is one important caveat. Sometimes, a machine cannot incorporate every pattern type. Every workshop needs to have the ability to hand cut a garment if need be. As long as there is a bespoke cutter to back up the machine cuts, your garment should still be considered bespoke and the results will be even better.

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    • image of garment assembly

    Step 4: GARMENT ASSEMBLY

    The original intended meaning of bespoke is a single tailor performing all the necessary steps from measuring to pressing for each single garment. From that definition it would seem that the garment that would be assembled by the least amount of hands would be considered the most bespoke. That reasoning does not match the results that Alan David can deliver for you.

    At Alan David, we believe that the garment that is put together with the highest quality sewing techniques should be the garment that is considered the most bespoke. If a workshop has well-trained & experienced tailors and operators assembling the garments, then that can be considered bespoke. At Alan David, our main concern is that the garment is assembled to the highest possible standards.

    An assembly line of operators and tailors achieve this result. An assembly line allows for a single operator or tailor to repeat the same operation over and over. This allows the person to become an expert and to carry out the operation quicker, both good traits for a bespoke garment. At Alan David, our standard is delivering the highest quality to our customers using the best resources available, all of which results in the best finished product.

    image of alan david basted fitting

    Step 5: THE BASTED FITTING

    Ah, the famous basted fitting, a long-time tradition for great bespoke tailors. The basted fitting is a valuable tool for any tailor who wants to be considered bespoke. Should a client request or need a basted fitting and the shop does not have the ability to do it, we would not consider that company a bespoke tailoring operation. A basted fitting allows the garment to be constructed and held together with white baste thread. This allows the client as well as the tailor to see how the garment will look before it is completed. The garment is easily changed without off-the-rack like alterations.

    But, does a garment have to be basted first to be considered bespoke? We do not believe so. We prefer to do basted fittings, it helps us to make sure the client is getting the best fit possible and it helps the client see the fit and style he is actually going to receive. However, these days, clients are in a rush and do not have the time or patience to go through multiple fittings. An old world true bespoke tailor used basted fittings multiple times on a single garment. At Alan David, we can do any one or all of these bastes.

    However, the timing for the client (as well as the cost) does not usually make this a feasible option. Alan David prefers to do one full forward baste. At Alan David, every client receives the option of the baste and we accommodate those who wish to choose that option.

    Image of a tailor ironing a finished suit

    Step 6: FINISHING TAILORS

    A custom suit operation can do all the above correctly, and still a bespoke fit may not be achieved. Sometimes the client gains or loses some weight, sometimes the tailor misses one or several measurements and sometimes things just happen. It is critical that any store that considers itself bespoke have a collection of true finishing tailors to complete your bespoke garment. Even the final press, a much overlooked operation, must be done properly. The finishing tailors can complete the true bespoke experience. They can also destroy it.

    Alan David prides itself on having the highest quality finishing tailors around. Come visit us and see for yourselves.

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